Asian American chefs to watch (yes, even after AAPI Heritage Month is over)
By Kim Johnston
A Quick Glance
Asian American Pacific Islander Heritage Month can be traced back to 1977 when Reps. Frank Horton first proposed it to celebrate the minority group’s historical contributions to the United States. This period would have taken place during the first ten days of May in honor of the first wave of Japanese immigrants on May 7, 1843, and the completion of the first transcontinental railroad by Chinese workers on May 10, 1869.
It was initially rejected before President Jimmy Carter signed off on a joint resolution in the following year.
The next decade saw annual designations for the continuation of AAPI week, before finally being extended to a month-long observance by President H.W. Bush in 1992.
Ok, history lesson over. I told you it would be quick.
You Are What Your Ancestors Ate
Much of the identity in being Asian falls into our culinary backdrop. Through my Filipino veins runs the marinade mixture of garlic, soy sauce, and black pepper from my Lolo’s chicken adobo, and engrained in my memory are the scents and sounds from taking the first crispy bite of a turon (sweet plantain egg roll), also made by Lolo. What we eat connects us to the customs of relatives that came long before us, and each dish holds its own story of conception as delectable as the experience of consuming it.
The term “Asian American Pacific Islander Heritage Month” casts an oversized net over the cultural sections that occupy the space of being Asian, not to mention that it’s also very tiring to type out. However, it does present an opportune time to highlight two members of our community who honor and share their heritage year-round.
Alberta of Herculean Chicken
Known to many through her Instagram handle, @phx_food_whisperer, Alberta Chu is no stranger when it comes to marketing in the restaurant industry. Composed of a variety of dishes like mochi donuts and ramen dishes that look good enough for anyone to say, “umami,” her feed effectively captures the attention of over 10k Instagram users, enticing them to try new Asian delicacies.
Inspired by the chefs and creatives in her time as an influencer, Chu took a leap of faith to the other side of the culinary world as a maker of Taiwanese fried chicken.
“My heritage is Cantonese but I grew up in Taiwan, where street food is very popular, be it in night markets or even food stalls on the sidewalks leading to residential areas,” she says, “Taiwanese fried chicken came to mind, not only because I personally love to eat that, but it is the perfect street food. Fried food is a crowd-pleaser, fried chicken smells great, and the cutlet and popcorn chicken are easy to eat while walking around as they are served in paper bags to be handheld.”
Taking her Taiwanese street-style chicken to Arizona streets, Chu uses her self-developed recipes to introduce a new way of eating to Phoenicians and Tucsonans.
A key point in her branding? Sharing her story with customers.
“If you plan to serve food that represents your heritage/cultural experience, don't forget to incorporate your story into your branding and presentation of your business. People love to know why you are selling what you sell especially if it is not already a common dish in the local community.”
Jackie of Tran’s Fats
Sporting a cowboy hat on his head and any number of Tucson’s best eats in his hands, Jackie Tran climbed the ranks and is now a leader in this city’s growing food scene. Equally as skilled in cooking as he is in capturing the experience of eating, the multifaceted photographer, writer, and chef continues to garner the attention of both local and national audiences.
Much like Alberta, the famed foodie personality was led to a career in the food industry by observing masters of the craft. However, while Chu found her inspiration through social media interactions, Tran found his the old school way – through a television screen.
“Jacques and Julia on PBS was my earliest exposure, but Bourdain was what motivated me to take the leap,” Tran recalls.
In Bourdainian fashion, Tran takes an interest in the symbiotic relationship between food and culture, creating dishes inspired by his own upbringing.
This is evident when observing the menu at his upcoming venture, Tran’s Fats, and seeing the Chinese Xiaolongbao and Vietnamese Pho merged into one dish.
“Nostalgia aside, I’ve learned to embrace more of the dishes I’ve grown up with. The impactful Asian dishes I’m still discovering from neighboring countries also help inspire me to this day.”
When asked what advice he would give to fellow Asian-Americans who are looking to follow his footsteps, he says now is the time to do it!
“Media is embracing us more than ever, so don't hesitate to jump in. The culinary community in Tucson is tight-knit and happy to help each other, so get to know us all and we'll help you out.”
A Cultural Divide
A handful of memories come to mind when reminiscing on my first days in America.
My awe at the smoothness of my uncle’s English in comparison to my broken and forced speech (he immigrated to the country much earlier than me and my parents), the first time I noticed that most people had their own cars and didn’t rely as much on public transportation, and the realization that Filipino food was, according to my peers, pretty weird.
Seven-year-old me walked past the queue of students holding blue lunch trays waiting to be filled with chicken nuggets, spoonfuls of apple sauce, and whatever mix of steamed vegetables the lunch ladies found in the freezer that day. Foods I now reminisce on with fond nostalgia, but for seven-year-old me, looked like toy food my Barbies ate.
Even with my broken English and dislike for lunches the American public school system provided, I was rather social and made friends quickly.
My new first-grade teacher sat my class down at a long rectangular table, me sitting between my new friend, a freckled girl with blunt bangs, and someone whose face I don’t recall. Perhaps he was one of the kids standing in line holding a blue tray.
I saw my mom packing my lunch that morning and saw fresh rice and an orange meat stew from the night before making its way into my new “American” lunch box. Again, I can’t recall if the stew was Menudo, Afritada, or Caldereta. In fact, I probably couldn’t differentiate between the three today. Whatever it was, I knew I liked it and I worked up an appetite after being rather social in the first half of the day.
I could still hear the domino effect of exclamations that came from my classmates as I opened the plastic container. “What is that?!”
“It smells weird!”
There it was. My glass-shattering moment.
The largest cultural divide I would experience wasn’t due to my poor grammar and strong accent, it was through the food my ancestors ate.
Embracing Asian Culture
Along with many other Asian Americans, I shied away from revealing the dishes I ate at home. Instead, I opted for the chicken nuggets and apple sauce and begged my mom for Lunchables during grocery trips.
Thankfully, as I grew up and matured, so did the rest of the world.
With the rise of social media and the influence of Asian-American public figures like Alberta Chu and Jackie Tran, the cultural gaps that exist within society have become smaller.
With the allure of attractive square tiles, newcomers to Asian cuisine are discovering the vibrant colors and flavors of Southeast Asia, as well as the native ingredients and cooking methods of its neighbors.
Taiwanese fried chicken, XiaoLongBao, and Pho are no longer looked at with raised eyebrows, but as sought-after food experiences, and let’s not forget, very aesthetic.
AAPI Heritage Month, once thought to be deserving of only ten days, pays homage to the contributions of Asian Pacific Islanders throughout American history. However, it is also a time of reflection on the hardships the minority group endured through the years.
The next few weeks present an opportune time to celebrate Asian culture and support our businesses, but don’t forget to do the same, even after AAPI Heritage month is over.
Follow along Alberta’s journey by searching @phx_food_whisperer and @herculeanchicken on Instagram.
You can also get Jackie’s food truck updates on his Instagram page @transfatstruck and see more Asian/Tucson- inspired recipes on his personal account, @jackie_tran_.